At the Grand Palais in Paris, Matthieu Blazy presented his debut collection for the House of Chanel in a show that balanced grandeur with restraint. The space, once home to Karl Lagerfeld’s elaborate sets, became a planetarium filled with glowing orbs. This setting echoed Blazy’s direction for Chanel, now entering a new era under its fourth creative director in 115 years.
Among those in attendance were stars including Nicole Kidman, the new brand ambassador, who was joined by her daughters, along with Margot Robbie, Penélope Cruz, Ayo Edebiri, Pedro Pascal, Tilda Swinton, and Julia Louis-Dreyfus.
Blazy built the collection around duality. “She decided for herself what she could be, and she could be both faces of the same coin,” he said after the show, referring to founder Coco Chanel. The collection reflected that tension between structure and sensuality, intimacy and confidence.
Texture led the narrative. Fabrics appeared almost tangible, drawing the eye to their depth and finish. Colours were rich and concentrated, with red appearing in sequinned co-ords, ruffled skirts, and sharp tweed separates. Eveningwear remained in shades of ivory, beige, and black, echoing Paris’s celebration of a century of Art Deco.
Gold wheat motifs, one of Coco Chanel’s personal symbols, featured on tweed coats and sack dresses, while knits and tweeds were dense and fringed. With tweed, some suits had low-slung wrap skirts, while others were puffed or frayed. The focus was attitude. “There are Chanel women all around the world,” Blazy said.
Accessories followed the same principle. The classic bag appeared without its chain, while new bags were introduced in the collection, including egg-shaped clutches, small top-handles, and soft carryalls in supple leather.
“There was too much beauty. The good thing with the codes of Chanel is you can reduce them. They still look like Chanel,” Blazy said.
The message was clear: Chanel’s next phase will move with the world and speak to many cultures. “Fashion should be beautiful and enjoyable,” he added.
Blazy’s Chanel honours the house’s heritage while pushing it forward. He has brought Chanel back to its core.
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