Determined to seize the opportunity, Noguchi and his team even slept inside the Expo grounds rather than commute, allowing them to work around the clock and serve a relentless stream of eager visitors.
Before the Expo, Noguchi’s shop in Osaka’s Nakatsu district had already earned a reputation for premium tonkatsu. For the Expo, he elevated his craft into a full dining experience, aging pork to draw out its natural umami, coating it in ultra-light breadcrumbs, and frying each cutlet at low temperature before finishing it with a crisp, high-heat flash. The result is a melt-in-the-mouth dish that, as Noguchi notes, represents “the cutting edge of Japanese pork cuisine.”
Noguchi’s path to the Expo was far from easy. With approval granted only in late December, just two months before opening, he faced financing challenges as banks hesitated amid public skepticism about the event. Undeterred, he borrowed from friends to cover the 55 million yen needed for construction all out of his own pocket and completed the shop a mere week before opening day.
His motivation came from a childhood memory of attending the 1970 Osaka Expo, which left a deep impression. Later, a visit to Expo Milano revealed the potential for chefs to shine on the global stage, inspiring him to represent Japan at the next world fair. When Osaka was chosen as host, “there was no question I had to be part of it,” he recalled.
Since opening, Noguchi’s restaurant has been fully booked daily, and reservations have become difficult to secure. The team’s days begin at 6 a.m. with prep work, followed by four lunch seatings, take-out service, and three dinner seatings that run until 10 p.m., with cleanup and prep continuing past midnight.
Despite the grueling schedule, Noguchi describes the experience as “immensely enjoyable,” with visitors’ energy and enthusiasm fueling his passion. The hard work has paid off: sales have soared tenfold, reaching roughly 150 million yen in just six months.
Noguchi has also used the Expo as a platform for innovation, collaborating with local producers to create new menu items such as rice croquettes wrapped in pork sourced from nearby farms. He sees such projects as a way to promote Japanese agriculture and elevate tonkatsu to a global culinary art form. “This is Japan’s culture,” he said, “and I want to show it to the world.”
The Expo’s economic impact extends beyond its gates. At Bentencho Station, a key transfer point for visitors, a retro izakaya has seen its monthly revenue jump by as much as 50 percent. The influx of younger customers—particularly women—has been striking, with many choosing to dine there before entering the Expo grounds to avoid long food queues inside.
Although the owner expects business to return to normal once the event ends, he says the surge has been a welcome boost amid rising costs. “The Expo’s effect has been significant,” he said. “It’s brought in new customers and reminded people we’re part of the Expo experience too.”
As the Osaka-Kansai Expo approaches its final day, the story of Noguchi and his small team captures the spirit of entrepreneurship, determination, and creativity that global events can spark—proving that with enough passion and perseverance, even a single restaurant can become one of the stars of a world stage.
https://newsonjapan.com/article/147259.php
